Dailekh diaries

by STUTI SHARMA

FROM ISSUE # 197 (May 2012) | IN THIS ISSUE
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ANKUR NEUPANE

I was tensed and the butterflies in my stomach weren't helping either. This was the night before I headed to Dailekh and the notion of being on a bus for 12 hours was making me a nervous wreck. My friend and I had gone through a list of unfortunate events that could occur during the journey which was slotted to start at 5 in the morning. Things like motion sickness, accidents and bandhs were discussed. The discussion didn't help me either so I did what I normally do when I have too much on my mind. I slept. 

The morning I went to the bus stop (without any trouble) and we headed off to Dailekh at about 5am. As it turns out, I do not get motion sickness and there was no accident either and the only delay was a 2 hour roadblock and a change of wheels for the bus. We were well on our way to the Dailekh which we called home for the next month. 
The trip was part of Rato Bangala School's outreach program. 17 of us were participating in the program by teaching students subjects like Math, Science, English and social studies.  The aim was to familiarise teachers and students alike to a more participative and open classroom environment so that children could grasp what they are taught better. 

We stayed with Karna Shahi, the program officer of DSP and were assisted by Sher Bahadur Thapa or lovingly known as Sher-bro. Soon the 17 of us were divided into three of four groups and were assigned to one of the four schools; Janata Higher Secondary School, Janata Primary School, Deep Shishu Primary School and Sri Narayan Primary School. While some of us had to hike 2 hours to reach our school, others just had a three minute stroll. Nonetheless, each group had something or the other to share in the dining hall every night. In our free time (read: the teachers' protest coincided with our trip so there were more breaks for us) we played badminton at the Dailekh Education Office and went to the kuwa to wash clothes- guys bathed there as they didn't have access to a bathroom. By the end of the day we were tired but we were having so much fun that we would stay up until late at night (the record being 4:30 am).

By the end of our  first week, locals started referring to us as 'Sirs' and 'Miss' and children said Namaste and 'good morning' whenever we went to the bajar. The locals were eager to share their stories of Kathmandu. I will never forget students asking me if I knew their uncle in Kathmandu and whether I had heard of him.

One thing I cannot stress enough is Nepal is a truly beautiful country. I always thought the 'Nepal is beautiful' card was overplayed until I made the trip to Dailekh. As we were residing on top of a hill, we were surrounded by hills and could see rivers winding and cutting paths through the foot of the hills. Whether the hills were slightly covered in snow or morning fog, the clean air and greenery is something I will cherish forever.  

On my last day at the school I was teaching in, the children asked us if we would ever return to Dailekh. I hope in time, we will.

If you ever find yourself in Dailekh Bajar, do try some of these

1. Saugat's Sekuwa: Arguably one of the best sekuwa I have tasted in my life. At Rs 100 a plate, it's cheap, filling and delicious. 
2. If sekuwa is not to your liking, Pratima Hotel serves hot samosas and jerri at Rs 5 a piece. Shocked? So were we. 
3. Pilgrimage: Visit Navisthan and Shresthan to view the jwala, and endless stream of fire that are ignited from natural gases underground. 
4. The Falcon Point: Although the name was given by us, if you want to look at a perfect sunset beyond the hills, this is the place for you. It is situated a little ahead of the Shiva Temple inside the Animal Treatment Centre. 
5. Tundikhel: The Tundikhel of Dailekh is an open area where children play, goats graze and people laze around in the sun.