Thame The old salt trading route: THAME

by DUKSANGH SHERPA

FROM ISSUE # 171 (March 2010) | IN THIS ISSUE
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Destination: Lukla-Phakding-Namche-Thame
How to get there: Take a plane directly to Lukla then walk the rest of the way.
How much to take: Rs 2000 per day
What to take: Good pair of shoes, plenty of water, good sun block, warm clothes, windcheater (as it gets very windy during the afternoons)

DUKSANGH SHERPA 'Thamel of Khumbu', Namche lights up for the night.

Lukla is the gateway to the Everest region for all trekkers, travellers and mountaineers. It's been so for a while, but it's definitely not the same village it used to be during the time of Sir Edmund Hillary. It has transformed into a bustling little town where you get things that you could have never imagined back then - from Starbucks, IIly coffee to pan pizzas.

The journey starts from Lukla. After visiting a few fancy places and doing some last minute shopping, you head towards Phakding.

Phakding is a quiet place; you can't sense much movement there, besides the zopkyak (a domestic animal in the Khumbu, mainly used for carrying heavy loads, that is quite hairy and looks like a yak). You'll meet zopkyaks all along the trail, and take care on the narrowest bits. Fortunately you can hear them coming from a distance, as every one has a big bell dangling from its neck.

The real fun starts after Phakding. The trek from Phakding to Namche is a long one. By the time you reach Namche, you'll feel that you've travelled across the continent! For people who walk briskly, it might be just a wee bit difficult. But for people like me, who'd rather rest every once in a while and enjoy the view, it can seriously get a little tough. However, when you finally reach Namche, every bit of the pain, frustration, irritation and walking will have been worth it. The feeling of great satisfaction and pride cannot be traded for anything else.

The view from Namche is spectacular, and it's impossible not to enjoy this famed town. Today, Namche is the 'Thamel' of Khumbu. The food, the lights, the atmosphere itself is very similar to what we in Kathmandu are accustomed to. The eateries there beckon you. Just for a try, I wanted to taste the food and see if it's as good as it sounded. Heaven! It was the ultimate pleasure to have coffee and chocolate cake up in the high mountains after days of trekking. Internet could also be accessed, but it's better if you don't bother with it for a while as it costs from between Rs 800 to Rs 1000 per hour. But it's quite impressive how the Sherpas have created a very comfortable and cozy environment for their visitors (and themselves), despite the difficult terrain there. 

Namche was very difficult to leave, as I had the most comfortable stay there. Just as how Kathmandu is surrounded by hills, likewise, mountains surround Namche. While leaving Namche, I comforted myself by reminding myself of all that I would be passing through on my way back.

The trail from Namche to Thame was great. Couldn't have asked for a better one. The places got better and better as we came across monasteries, paintings and carvings on huge stones and chortens.

On the way to Thame.

And when we finally reached Thame, the stillness there shocked me a bit. You understand the true definition of 'pin drop silence' in Thame. It's a super huge place, with yards of potato fields and a splendid view of the Himalayas.

Known as the home of Apa Sherpa, who holds the world record for summitting Everest 19 times and Tenzing Norgay, the first man to summit Everest with Hilary, Thame is on the salt trading route that existed between Nepal, Tibet and India. 

Despite the freezing cold and the howling wind all along, my trek in the Khumbu was an experience of a lifetime. It's one of the milestones in my life, as I have learned so much: how to cope with different situations and life itself in completely new places.

I feel so lucky to have gone for this trek. The culture of the Sherpa's land is such that once you've experienced it, you'll never forget it. All those who have been there will understand what I mean, and as for the rest, perhaps you should make it your next holiday destination?The old salt trading route: