Hidden Valley

by SHRADHA BASNYAT

FROM ISSUE # 157 (January 2009) | IN THIS ISSUE
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Destination: Dharmastali, Balaju
How to get there: Take a microbus or a car from Balaju bypass or cycle there. A 45-minute to an hour walk from Balaju is possible too
What to take:  Wear boots, the roads are a little rough at the top. A bottle of water and wear clothes in layers. In the winter, its quite chilly at first, but after walking a little it gets quite hot. 

IMAGES: ANUP PRAKASH

Dusty and dirty, the crowded Balaju city is enough to make anyone want to escape the minute they have entered that area. With congested roads, never-ending traffic and people, one can only get from one area to the next after a long wait and a whole lot of frustration. The reek from the carelessly strewn garbage makes one want to run away as far as possible. Well you don't really have to run very far, a 15-minute car ride away for that area is Dharmastali. A small and ancient village neatly tucked away from people's view, Dharmastali is right in between the industrialised Balaju and the dense forest area of Nagarjun. 

Its close proximity to the capital makes Dharmastali a perfect getaway for those who want to escape from the disarray and commotion of the polluted city area for a short period of time. But don't be too hopeful for the village is small with no sign of development despite being a stone throw away from Kathmandu. Untouched by commercialisation, lodges are few making overnight stay inconvenient. However, it is an ideal place to explore on a day trek and to catch a breath of fresh air.
 
The most hassle free way to get there starts from Balaju Bypass, then pass Nepaltar and go along the road of Manamaiju village. Sesmati river flows right below the road that leads to the heart of the village. The roads at the beginning are a little rocky and the ride is quite bumpy. In the past two years, however, the place which was once largely ignored has been noticed as the government discovered Okharpaua–a large dumping site. Since then the roads have started to be tarred. A little farther above, the roads are stony and dusty but taking a car is still manageable. Right now, the roads are still being constructed and large mountain-like hills are being bulldozed to flatlands and in the near future a motor-able road will take one till the top. Near the top is Dharaban, a series of olden water taps which is supposed to have the most sacred and delicious water. Ignored till date, the construction of the pitched roads brought this tiny village to notice. Developers are now seeing potential in the place and slowly the lands are being plotted and sold. More and more chicken farms are also sprouting up.
 
For me, Dharmastali is the home of my fore-fathers and the childhood home of my father and his brothers. There is profound sense of nostalgia that is lingering in our family and though our fathers moved away a long time ago, we often go back. A lot of my childhood memories are wrapped around firmly here – walking all day with my cousins around the area and exploring the large untamed hills, singing songs into the night under the starry skies and playing chiplety [sliding down a hill on a large leaf]. This village is our retreat away from the world- it's a place of picnics and laughter, a rare time for everyone to get together.

This place also has a lot of historical and religious meaning attached to it. Legend has it, that the village was called 'dharma-stali' because it was where people earned 'dharma nai dharma'. The gods themselves were supposed to have visited the place. Another famous legend that you hear from eager old women and men that are extremely enthusiastic about passing their stories on, is about how Prithibi Narayan Shah 'supposedly' came to meditate in Dharmastali before he conquered Kathmandu. Predominantly inhabited by the Newar community, Dharmastali is one of the few places in Kathmandu that celebrates Ghodejatra in an incredible fashion. For four days the entire village marks the festival with style, merriment and worship. On the last day, four chariots visit each and every house for puja.

While visiting Dharmastali, it is said that one has to visit the Mankalthan Mandir. A 10-minute walk right up around a long winding road, will get you there. Sitting serenely on top of a tall hill, is a whole range of temples from Mankal Bhagwati to Swarswoti. This slightly strenuous walk up to the temple is sure worth the trouble if for nothing else but the spectacular view. From this single secluded hill-top one can see far and beyond into the entire village, Balaju, and even Pulchowki Dhada. Another popular hike is the trek to Tareswhor, which is another place with a remarkable view.

After an entire day of getting away, one can then drive back into the city quickly without being stuck in traffic for hours, holding close the memories of a place is close yet cut off from the hustle of the chaotic city life.