Where the Mountains are

by TEXT AND IMAGES BY SARAL SHRESTHA

FROM ISSUE # 154 (October 2008) | IN THIS ISSUE
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Destination: Annapurna Base Camp (ABC), 4130 meters
How to get there: Two hours bus ride to Naya Pul, on foot to Chomrong, and Machhapuchhare Base Camp and then ABC
Duration of trek: 6-8 daysCost: 500-1000 per person per day.
What to take: Warm clothes, trekking boots, a camera and loads of trekking enthusiasm.
Best time to trek: October-November

Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) is one of the most frequently trekked routes of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) region. After proper lodging facilities were established, tourists have been trekking these trails throughout the year. However, the tracks can get hostile, especially during the monsoon season when rain floods the trails and in some cases completely erases them.

nfortunately, I took on ABC exactly at this time of the year. My original plan was to traverse the rain-shadow regions of Mustang, but after waiting for hours at the Pokhara Airport and witnessing a failed landing at Jomsom Airport the next day, I had no other choice. But this was not my first time to ABC: I had been there many years ago, when cameras worked on films and I still read Goosebumps.

We started with a one-hour taxi ride along the Baglung-Pokhara highway to the place where most good treks in Nepal start–Naya Pul. After a 30 minute walk to Birethanti, five hours to the right is Ghandruk. Don't miss a chance to stand right in front of the many waterfalls along the way, and let the crashing waters spray tiny droplets to cool you off. But even the manmade scenery is remarkable. While you ascend step after step to Ghandruk, you will notice the amazing stone work. Each piece of rock seems to have been lifted and carefully laid down like a jigsaw puzzle.

One hour up the steps is Kimche, where an enormous landslide had occurred some time back. Nature can be cruel as much as it can be beautiful: the landslide swept away a few houses and destroyed acres of fields. From here onwards even the steps do not compromise on their cruelty, and they just don't seem to end if you don't have anything else to do besides walking and complaining.

Ghandruk is usually the first pit stop. An early start to Chomrong the next day will be the most tiring and de-motivating part of the entire trek. To get to Chomrong, you'll have to cross the Kyumrung River and your task is to lose all the altitude you wrestled and sweated to gain the day before and then climb back up again to Chomrong. It doesn't stop there; this route is the most leech-infected trail in the whole trek. If it rains, it's party time for the beasts. So keep the ammo (salt) ready, or you're doomed.Around five to six hours from Ghandruk, depending on how many pit stops you make, you should be breathing in Chomrong's air. Here, numerous hotels with TV, hot shower and telephone service greet you, along with an unforgettable zoom-in view of Annapurna I and Machhapuchhare.

And this is also the last place you'll see any residences. From here on, it's only the hotels and you. It would be a good idea to lighten your bag at Chomrong if you're planning to return the same way.

Sinuwa, the next stop, though not as tiring as the day before, follows the same old routine of going up and coming down. In fact, the trail from here is pleasing–fewer leeches, fewer steps and the feeling of being so close to the mountains livens your spirit. Sinuwa will be the last viewpoint for another day or so, the next will be at Deurali. But when you are in Deurali, you'll be so close to the mountains that you'll feel like you can touch them.Two hours from Sinuwa is Bamboo which gets its name from the bamboo forest. Don't leave Bamboo until you've had some lunch, there are a good many hotels and if you started at 8AM from Chomrong, it'll be exactly lunchtime. Stop at Dovan from here. There are three hotels there and all of them have their own hydropower generator that provides electricity and a heavenly hot shower.

Next day, start at the same time, and aim for Machhapuchhare Base Camp. Himalaya is just two hours form here and because there is some serious climbing to do, starting with a fresh pair of legs always helps. You'll be walking through a dense forest and momentary peeks at the numerous waterfalls on the other side of the river will serve as your motivation. Meat isn't allowed on this route because of a holy temple here. From Chomrong even mules aren't allowed to pass; but sheep, dogs and humans are exceptions.On the way to Machhapuchhare Base Camp, Deurali awaits you with a hot plate of dal bhat.

The geography starts to get barren and rockier and the mountains inch closer to you with every step.And the view is all yours to enjoy without any rush–MBC is only one and a half hours, and ABC another two hours from here.An important point to note though, is altitude sickness. Symptoms usually start showing after about 2500 meters, which includes dizziness, nausea and difficulty in breathing. If any of this happens to you–descend! Having heaps of garlic, garlic soup and garlic pizza helps but remember that altitude sickness can get dangerous and can kill.You should easily be in MBC at around three in the afternoon. As you get closer to MBC, stop looking up. When you get there, get a room, unpack, take a shower and put a blindfold on. When you are relaxed, go outside and take off your blind fold. Enjoy the most spectacular view of Machhapuchhare. If you turn around, you can set eyes on Annapurna I and when the sun is about to set, the sight is even more breathtaking.

If you're planning to catch sunrise at ABC wake up at around 4AM. Leave everything except your walking stick and camera in MBC and slowly ascend toward ABC, don't hurry, there is a high chance you'll fall sick if you do. As it starts to brighten up you will witness a jaw dropping site of Annapurna South. The mountain will appear so big that you'll literally be able to make out the glaciers and the crevasses. At the bottom lie the hotels of ABC, enclosed by the Himalayas. A few steps and you should be there just in time to indulge on nature's show, something that can't be expressed in either words or film.On the right is Annapurna I, behind Machhapuchhare, on the left is Himchuli and gloriously in front rests Annapurna South. Just a few minutes, and a dazzling scene will unfold… the sun starts to rise from behind Machhapuchhare, the first rays of the sun steeps the mountains, and slowly the peaks start to change colors.Descending should be easy, you may feel a little ABC sick, but you've seen so much mountain and snow that you'll dream about it for another week. Skip, hop or run to MBC, then set off for Bamboo or Sinuwa or even Chomrong if you're really ambitious. A good trip back can be a night in Bamboo then the next day to Jhinu via Chomrong. Jhinu or the Hot Springs is just an hour from Chomrong and en-route to Syauli Bazaar through the recently opened trekking route. By six in the evening, you should be back in Pokhara, fresh from the springs. It's also a great idea to end the trip on top of a bus from Naya Pul to Pokhara, with the goats. If you manage not to fall off, it has the potential to wrap the entire expedition fabulously.