 MIN RATNA BAJRACHARYA |
Destination: Lo ManthangHow to get there: Take a 15 min. flight to Jomsom from Pokhara and then start the journey upwards.
What to take: Hiking boots or sturdy shoes, a windproof jacket or a windcheater.Money matters: Rs 300-400 a day.
Trekking in the monsoon is a feat like no other. Unless wisely chosen, trekking routes can lead to mass leech attacks, mud in your hair, your clothes and even inside your underwear, and of course, not to forget the slippery paths that border massive chasms and cliffs, where one wrong slip could send you hurtling down the sides. But not to worry, if you are dying to trek this monsoon, there's always Mustang, Nepal's rainshadow.
Mustang in the monsoon is very similar to Mustang in the summer, winter and fall. There is very little change in Mustang's geography during the monsoon except for the clear pristine views and the crystal panoramas that take your breath away. And then, there are wild flowers at every step, mushrooms sprouting from between rocks, and wisps of clouds like soft cotton candy.
Lo Manthang, the capital of Mustang is seeped in history and culture, one that remains relatively untouched so far. The trek to Lo Manthang is by no means easy, and even from Jomsom, requires at least a four day trek. A 15-minute flight from Pokhara will get you to Mustang's lone airport. You leave the rain clouds and monsoon showers back in Pokhara for Mustang is rain free, not necessarily a good thing for the residents. Mustang is Nepal's desert, with an arid landscape unlike any other in Nepal. Sand is everywhere, the wind is strong enough to actually push you backwards and the rock formations are massive balancing structures carved and crafted by the passing winds.
You start from Jomsom and spend an easy flat, two hour walk to Kagbeni. The trail from Kagbeni too is mostly flat, although it involves wading across streams that are quite large at this time of the year. Don't worry, the currents aren't strong enough to carry you away.
The Kali Gandaki roars alongside you for the first two days, past Chele to Ghemi. Chele is a wonderful little town nestled above the river and offers magnificent views of Nilgiri and Tilicho. The trail can be tricky at times, with just a narrow pass winding in and out of rocky cliffs, alongside a sheer drop. From Chele to Ghemi is a rough trek, with the path winding up and down. But as you approach the village, an awe-inspiring sight of vivid red and blue cliff faces, unlike anything you will ever see in Nepal, welcome you.
From Ghemi is another day's walk to Lo Manthang. By now, you should already be acclimatised and the crisp mountain air should invigorate you further. Now, it is just a few more hours of pushing on till you reach your destination. On the way up is Tsarang, a small settlement that offers traditional Tibetan momos and fresh garlic soup, the local remedy for altitude sickness.
Four hours later, you can spy the walled city of Lo Manthang, go through the notorious Windy Pass and then behold the awesome capital of Mustang. Lo Manthang requires at least one or two days to explore. There is the Thubchen Gompa, the Jampa Lakhang and all around are wall paintings dating back to the 10th century. Weathered by age, wind and time, these paintings still hold all the intricacies planted there by the original artists.
After fully exploring Lo Manthang, when you're ready to leave, get set for another three days of backtracking. But this downhill trip is by no means boring. The vistas are still as startling as ever, the landscapes still vast and sweeping. Take a more leisurely pace downwards, taking the time to fully enjoy the wondrous views that you rushed past on the way up. Mustang is unlike any other trek. There are no lush trees, bushes and shrubs, just the harsh unforgiving sun beating down upon dry, scorched plains. But the mountains make it all worthwhile. They rise above like towers, so close you'd want to reach out and touch them – snow glistening like mirrors on the slopes. And they rise on all sides, trapping you in the middle of their awe-inspiring beauty, making you thankful for being born in a country where every mountain seems to speak and call to you.
