48 hours in Lebanon

FROM ISSUE # 146 (February 2008) | IN THIS ISSUE
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I got a 15-day visa for Lebanon from their embassy in Cairo. But when I entered Beirut, the immigration officer inquired about my occupation. "Farming," I answered. He didn't understand, so I simplified it. "Agriculture," I said. He didn't know what that was either, so he sent me to another officer.

The new officer asked me for my passport. He looked at it and asked me if I had any more. I gave him the other four expired passports I had. He checked all of them and asked me if I had ever been to Israel. I said no, even though I had just been there last year. The passport with the Israeli visa stamp was back home in Nepal. I didn't have any choice but to lie as it's impossible to enter a Muslim country in the Middle East if one's been to Israel.

He then took me to his boss who asked me where I would stay in Beirut. I was going to stay with my friends and I told him so. He asked me for my friend's phone number and when I gave him Dipendra's number, he immediately called him.

A few of my Nepali friends had come to receive me and one of the officers took me outside. They of course had no idea about what was happening inside so cheered "Welcome to Lebanon." He checked their ID cards and asked one of my friends, who was an Army captain, if he would allow for a copy of his card to be made and if he would take responsibility for me. My friend, as a member of the UN Peace Keeping Force, needed permission from his boss for that so he said no. The officer immediately called his boss and complained that none of my friends were ready to take responsibility for me. The chief immigration officer then told me that I couldn't enter the country.

"Where should I go?" I asked, surprised.
"Back from where you came," he replied.
"But I don't have a return ticket," I said.
"The airlines you came on will take you back. It's waiting for you," he said.
"But I don't have a multiple-entry visa for Egypt," I protested.
"Then you will be sent back your country," he said casually.
"I have a valid American and British visa, and why do you think I would stay here," I argued angrily.

I showed him my file which had more than 350 clippings of my interviews from around the world. I was asked to sit outside for a while. I had already been there for three hours. If they sent me back then I would have to go back to Nepal and I didn't even have money for the ticket. Finally after three hours, an officer came to me with my passport and told me that I had got the visa. Even though it was only a transit visa for 48 hours, I could finally set foot in the land of cedars.

Uhi Saikale
Beirut, Lebanon

Journey started: 29 November 1998
Aim: To cycle around the world to spread the message of peace and hope within 11 years.
Countries travelled till date: 116
Next leg: Jordan, Middle East