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YATRALOGUE

The river of forests

by SHASHANK SHRESTHA

FROM ISSUE # 135 (March 2007) | IN THIS ISSUE
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 ALL IMAGES: SHASHANK SHRESTHA
Sunset from Thanimai
Where is it:
143 kilometers west from Kathmandu
Getting there: Drive from Pokhara or Kathmandu get you to Dumre bazzar by midday followed by a half-hour bus drive to Bandipur bazaar.
For the adventurous: Take a hike from the Bandipur trekking route from Dumre bazaar to arrive at Tundi Khel in approximately 2 hours.
Accommodations: Many hotels and inns are operational. One can also camp at Tundi Khel or take shelter at a local resident's home.
Best time to visit: May - June

The only time I had heard the mention Bandipur was in an old song by Taradevi called Bandipuri Ukali Laamo. So, it was with both anticipation and caution that I made my way to this place of laamo ukali. Thankfully, my caution was much ill-placed. What followed after the 4 hour bus ride was an exquisite treasure trove of nature. Upon dropping off at Tundi Khel, I knew the visit would be well worth it.

 
Deepak Raj Giri of Teeto Satya fame at Bandipur
Bandipur roughly translates into the river of forests in Magar language. Although I did not find it densely covered with trees, it was evident that the village had a good balance between vegetation and residences. The village comprises mainly of Newars followed by Magars, Gurungs and Limbus. The Newar population of the village is said to have migrated at the times of Prithivi Narayan Shah's unification campaign. During that era, Bandipur was a business center; a trade route to Tibet and India; a stark contrast to the ghost town it is today.
 
The point of arrival for many, Tundi Khel serves not only as a picnic spot for interested campers but also as a natural vantage point. It provides a semi-elliptical view of many Himalayan ranges including the Ganesh Himal, the Machhapuchre range, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and the Annapurna I, II and III to name a few notable peaks.

Breathtaking views, indeed! A visual treat for the eye, on a clear day mind you.   
 
 
Khadga Devi Temple
The pathways around the Bandipur village center are covered with a rich diversity in flora and fauna. It boasts over 24 species of colorful orchids. The nearby Raniban also proves to be a haven for nature enthusiasts with its interesting mix of wildlife. A good place for bird watching, it is also a good resting point to break up the arduous hike.

If you are the one to describe yourself as an adventure tourist then Bandipur will prove to be an attractive destination for you. Numerous hiking trails, areas for hand gliding, routes for rock climbing and a journey through the Siddha Gufa awaits the traveler at Bandipur. 
 
 
Siddha Gufa
The Sidhha Gufa stands at an elevation of 1016 meters and is 220 feet in length. Discovered by Victory Rana, the cave has been considered to be an important site for archeological expeditions. It is also believed that the cave has mystical powers of wish-fulfillment hence the name "Siddha".
 
Another similar natural wonder of Bandipur is the Thani-mai hill. Located at a distance of 500 meters from the town center, the hilltop is an excellent viewpoint to witness picture perfect sunrise, sunsets and other natural panorama. It is also used as a hand gliding spot by many adrenaline junkies. Also popular for its religious beliefs, the locals believe that praying to lord Shiva at this location will bring rainfall during a draught. 
 
 
Bandipur Bazaar
The most important religious shrine in Bandipur is the Khadgadevi Temple. The temple houses the enchanted sword (khadga) of king Mukunda Sen, the 16th century ruler of Bandipur. It is said that the Khadga was gifted to him by lord Shiva himself. Legend has it that the king left the sword to a Brahmin priest when he was driven away by invaders; the priest in turn established the sword in the Khadadevi temple. The 23 kilos sword is only unveiled during Phulpati. This religious ceremony integrates the participation of all the inhabitants of the Bandipur community regardless of their castes.
 
Its interesting history, rich natural diversity and intriguing areas are strong assets to its novelty and one will never truly tire of the rustic medieval-aged Bandipur. Be it for hiking, photography or simple relaxation, the picturesque village  truly has enough material to establish itself as a strong tourist town, for both international and national travelers.


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