Holy waters,holy thread | Yatralogue

ARUN SILWAL

Destination: Gosaikunda, Rasuwa
Getting there: Take a day bus to Dhunche via Trishuli.
How much: Rs 2,500-3,000 for the entire trip
What to take: Walking stick, jacket, comfortable hiking boots, umbrella, camera
What to do: Take a dip in the icy water and walk around the lake; hike up to Surya Kunda, one-and-a-half hours up; climb to Mengosa for a spectacular view of the mountain range and the holy lake
When: October to April, or during Janai Purnima (August)

I never understood pilgrims who take extreme journeys looking for salvation. I viewed them with scepticism until recently, when I undertook such a trip myself. My journey was to try and understand their motivation. My search led me to Gosaikunda, the ancient holy lake which draws thousands of visitors throughout the year.

The journey starts from Dhunche, the capital of Rasuwa. From there you take the rugged mountain trail to the holy lake. After a long trek, punctuated by ample rest stops along the way, you finally reach your destination. Gosaikunda sprawls majestically across the landscape. It's hard to believe this huge body of water begins as a small trickle. The spring runs into a little stream, which in turn feeds one of the most revered pools of water in Nepal, and indeed the entire Himalaya. The source is as significant as the lake, and devotees often travel the extra distance, singing hymns in praise of Shiva. Most pilgrims to Gosaikunda are drawn there by the belief that Lord Shiva created the water source by striking his trident deep into the Himalaya to stop the burning of the Halahal, the deadly poison he drank to save the universe.

Devotees come to Gosaikunda all year round, but the sacred thread festival Janai Purnima is considered an especially auspicious time to visit, and attracts hundreds. They begin with an obligatory dip in the icy water, and then go to the nearest pundit to change their janai. Swelling numbers mean that hoteliers have a hard time meeting the demand for shelter, and during my visit tents and temporary shelters sprang up to accommodate the steady stream of devotees.

RISHI AMATYA

Destination: Banglamukhi, Patan
Getting there: Take a Safa Tempo to Mangal Bazar and go to Sankhamul, or travel from Baneswor via Sankhamul
How much: Rs 7-13 for a tempo ride
What to take: A camera
What to do: Visit Banglamukhi and Kumbheswor Mahadev shrines; climb the rise beside Banglamukhi for a great view; sprinkle yourself with the cool water from the hiti; light a butter lamp, in the temple; wish for a mate
When: All around the year especially on Thursdays and during Janai Purnima

There's another lesser-known celebration that takes place at the Banglamukhi shrine in Patan. Legend says the water that flows from the water spout or hiti there is from the same source as Gosaikunda. Devotees of all ethnicities gather around a makeshift pond of the holy water where a statue of Shiva is partially submerged. The atmosphere is electric, with shamans dancing around the deity and people surrounding pandit bajes and bajais to get holy threads. This year bystanders were amused and confused by four bidesi jhakris dancing and paying homage to Shiva in Ray-Ban sunglasses and clothes generally used by Tamang shamans.

The excitement over, I headed home. On the way back, my mind was filled with images and feelings. I felt tired, but fulfilled, as if I had come to some understanding of why pilgrims undertake such arduous journeys. The sense of adventure and excitement at both these celebrations, and the obvious devotion of most pilgrims was attractive even to me, despite my lack of religious motivation. Replaying scenes from Gosaikunda and Banglamukhi in my mind, I realised that though these two places are separate, in essence they are the same; they complement each other perfectly, bound by the holy thread and holy water.