Men & Women of the mountain

FROM ISSUE # 55 (July 2000) | IN THIS ISSUE
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As Babu Chhiri Sherpa celebrates his latest feat on the world's highest mountain, his competitor Kaji Sherpa is already gearing up to regain the glory he lost last month.  

The Sherpas, who live at the foot of the Himalayas, for years served western mountaineers as porters and became famous for their guiding skills. Now these Sherpas are gaining world fame for setting and breaking records on the world's highest mountain.  

Last month, Babu Chhiri, a 34-year-old Sherpa guide climbed the 8,850 meters Mount Everest in 16 hours and 56 minutes setting a new record for the fastest climb of the world's highest mountain. Breaking a record set by Kaji Sherpa who had climbed Everest in 20 hours and 24 minutes during the autumn of 1998.  

It is only in the past few years that Sherpas who are known as "Tigers of the Snows" have begun entering their names in the record books. Sherpas were mostly yak herders and traders until Nepal opened its borders to tourism in 1950s.  

Renowned for their mountaineering skills and stamina, for years they have worked as guides and porters helping western mountaineers climb the slopes of Himalayan peaks in Nepal. Their stamina and knowledge of the mountains make them expert guides and porters.  

This was Babu Chhiri's 10th successful summit of Everest. Only two others have achieved this feat and they are both Sherpas. Ang Rita Sherpa, who is better known as 'snow leopard' first set the milestone in 1996 while Appa Sherpa did it last year.  

This year Appa, 40, scaled Everest for the 11th time setting the record of the most climbs. But still the modest Sherpa does not feel like a hero but a professional guide. "It is our job to help western climbers climb the mountains. I have not thought of organizing my own expedition for the sake of setting new records," Appa says.  

The Sherpa men were not the only ones making names on the mountains this year. Two Sherpa women climbed Everest from both sides to prove that they can climb as good as the men.  

"I did it for all the didis and bahinis (sisters) and for all the Nepali people. I may have had to face tough conditions on the mountain but it was for Nepal and the people," said Lakpa Sherpa, 26, who scaled Mt. Everest on May becoming the only second Nepali woman to scale world's highest peak.  

Lakpa may be the second Nepali woman to reach the summit, but she is the first one to return alive from the mountain. Pasang Lhamu, the first Nepali woman to scale Everest, died on her way down in 1993 from the peak. She had joined a team of male climbers.  

Though not many lives were lost in the mountains like in the past few years, this year's tale of tragedy had a different twist. Temba Tsheri, the 15-year-old seventh grader, who was aspiring to be the youngest climber to scale Everest, lost five fingers on his both hands. Doctors at B&B Hospital in Kathmandu amputated his fingers that had been badly frostbitten. He was only about 22 meters from the summit when he was forced to abandon his bid.  

He said he had taken off his gloves to tie his shoelace at the South Col before beginning the last part of the journey. But he could not get his fingers to warm up all over again.  

Another notable climb was by Ram Krishna Shrestha, 22, who became the second person from the Newar community to scale Everest. However, he was the first one to do so from the Nepalese side of Everest.

Lakpa Sherpa
How do you feel about your achievement?
I feel proud and I feel happy. My happiness does not just belong to me but for the entire population of this nation.

What were the difficulties you faced while climbing Mt. Everest?
There was many problems and hurdles I had to face in the mountains where there is not even water to drink, we have to melt the snow to drink and sleep on the snow. It was very cold and the weather was severe.

Did you at any point feel like quitting and returning back?
But I could not quite because of the harsh conditions … I had to do it for the didis and bahinis and for all the people of this Himalayan nation. 

What was it like when you stepped on top of the world?
When I reached the summit, I saw that all the peaks, lighting and clouds were below me and then only did I fully realize that I was at the top of the world. Spent an hour at the summit taking pictures and talking to two climbers who had come from the Tibetan side.

What were your thoughts at the summit?
As soon as I reached the summit, I wanted to return back home to share with my friends and family the success and my stories.

There were five members on your team, what was it like to leave them and go on your own? Though no other members in my team made it to the top, I had to do as the team leader. I had to show it even if it was just me doing it.

How was the last and most difficult part of your climb like?
We had to battle high winds and stormy conditions. However the Sherpas who had gone with me told me these were just minor hurdles that did not effect the Sherpas.

When you climbed down and looked back at the mountain before hopping on a plane back to Kathmandu, what was your reaction?
Returning back from Everest felt like I had left the comfortable and secure lap of my father and mother. I will continue to go back to the Everest area and take care of it.

What is your future plans on the mountain?
My next mission will be to traverse Everest climbing from the south side and returning from the north.

Why couldn't you stay within the 16 hours target you had set?
I could not climb within the target set. From the base camp to camp two, it took me three hours and 10 minutes and the deep snow was already delaying my climb. Besides having to fix ropes and set a path on the fresh snow took its toll too.
 
If everything including the weather was favourable, how long do you think it would take you?
If all things go well, I am confident that I could have climbed in 13 to 14 hours. 

In the past you have made record by climbing Everest twice in the same season, were you not tempted to do that again this time?
This time too I had plans to summit during the same season, but on May 6 when we were making our first attempt, we had to quit at 8,400 meters point around 3 a.m due to exhaustion.

Why did you venture out on a mission like this?
I never had the opportunity to go to school and had to help out in the farm. I don't want the children in my village to suffer like me and remain uneducated the rest of their lives. I want to help them out of this situation and that is why I am trying to raise enough money through these feats to build a school that would house 250 students.

At first it was announced that you climbed in 15 hours and 56 minutes and now you are saying you did it in 16 hours and 56 minutes, what was wrong with the timing?
There was some misunderstanding in the time due to communication problems between me and the base camp. But I want to put the record straight now I did it in 16 hours and 56 minutes.

Ram Krishna Shrestha

When did you first begin climbing mountains?
I have been working as a climbing guide for the past couple of years only and have climbed modest peaks like Pisang, Mera and Island Peaks but never a big mountain.

So how did someone like you born in a Newar community decide to join mountaineering?
I was born in Thamel and grew up in Jyatha area so I had many Sherpa friends who were in the mountaineering and trekking business. I also had a small cycle shop there so many mountaineers came there and told stories about the mountain so I was impressed and influenced by them.

Who was your inspiration to join this profession?
Ang Rita Sherpa who used to hang around in the area where I had my shop had been my biggest inspiration. He used to talk about mountain climbing and even when I moved to our new house in Swayambhu, the tenants were all Sherpas and all they talked about was climbing and the adventure in the profession. That is when I decided to join mountaineering profession.

When did you first get the taste of mountains and mountaineering?
I got the first taste of mountaineering in 1996 when a Sherpa dai took me in a trekking group as a "coolie".

What are your immediate plans now that you have set yourself a career? Do you have plans to marry and settle down?
I am single and have no plans of getting married in the next few years. I just don't think I am ready to settle down and I don't want to marry yet. It is a lot of responsibility to bring some one home to be a partner for life and to do that I have to be sure about myself first.

Do you have any other expeditions planned in the near future?
I have no plans on what I will do next as of today but I will have to see what kind of offers I get passed my way.

Appa Sherpa 

Now that you have made the 11th climb are you ready to call it quits?
I am not ready to retire yet. I am going to make that trip a few more times… I don't know how many more times but I am going to continue. I am not tired yet. The next expedition could come as early as this autumn. Through mountaineering we have been able to make our contribution to take the name of the country far and near.

Was your goal to break the record set by Ang Rita four years back?
I was not targeting to break Ang Rita's records. He is my guru and idol. It is like a son adding sampati (property) to the existing assets of the parents. How can one say this is competition? One should not decrease the assets … there is no harm in increasing it.

You and your team climbed Everest late in the season why?
Having to help out older members in our team delayed our climb. We had to help a 64-year old doctor from New York, Sherman Buhl. He did not make it any further than the South Summit, but that exhausted all of us. This was the worst of all the climbs I have had. But just guiding the members is not our job but also to make sure they come back down safe.

Why do you keep going back to the mountain?
It is my job and the income keeps me and family going for the whole year. I know the risks involved but we have no choice. Breaking and setting records is not my priority but to make an income through the only way I know how.

Temba Tsheri

What made you quit your attempt just 22 meters from the Everest summit?
My surdar said his eyes were hurting so he told me we couldn't go any further. Though my hands were beginning to hurt, I wanted to go but I couldn't go on without him.

How was the weather on the summit day?
The weather was deteriorating by the time we were approaching the summit and that was another factor that forced us to quit.

How do you feel about having to quit so close to your target?
I regret the fact and wish that I could have touched the summit.

Did you have to use bottled oxygen to supplement breathing?
I began to use the bottled oxygen only after camp III.

How do you think you got your fingers frost bitten?
I had opened my gloves to tie shoes at camp IV before beginning the last bid on the summit. After that I never managed to get them warm again. When I returned back to base camp it began to hurt and only found out that I would lose them when I reached Kathmandu.

Was there any other groups making their summit bid on the day with you?
There were three other teams including the one with Babu Chhiri. They had all left before us and by the time we left it was already 11 p.m.

How were the equipment and climbing gear you had and the management?
The equipment was okay but the management by Dolkha Foundation was not good. We did not even have enough oxygen tanks.

Do you think you would be able to climb again?
If my fingers heal then I would like to climb the mountain again. When? I don't know. For now I would like to continue with my education.